Century crack mountain project + Worst Idea Of The Century Crack V5 6C: Jul 20, 2006 · Share on Mountain Project. Most of the described routes, fewer than ten, take the obvious crack systems, although some of the described lines do have complex route finding problems. 75 Y-Crack Simulator. (5. Triassic Sands project in 2003. Trad Moved Permanently. V1 5 PG13 755 Heavenly > Pratt's Crack / Dihed Jun 20, 2002 · Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. Other thoughts: Breashear’s Crack (P1 of Wunsch’s) for sure. 9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a: Something For Logan S 5. any recs on crack sizes to include, and anyone have a recommendation on dimensions for building it. 14- to 5. There is an extensive list posted here. The Crack. Apr 28, 2025 · I climbed this while keeping appendages out of the crack. 8, 160' Climb straight up the face to a huge ledge and a double-bolt belay. 10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b: Devil's Fright T 5. But the highlight of this crag are the massive offwidth roofs up to 20 feet-literally feet. 8. The is an incredible subtly and depth to off width technique. 10 6b 20 VII-19 E2 5b: Stark 10 S 5. 7 (2 pitches), Kim 5. The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. Jan 31, 2019 · If the crack is deep enough sometimes you can reach down after pulling the roof and place a cam facing the wrong way in the crack with the rope on the inside to keep it out of the back of the crack. It is most noted for its long wall routes on amazing sandstone. Finger Licking Good at Turkey - I don’t get the hype on this one. Dec 15, 2006 · Impossible Crack is the very obvious line on the lefthand pillar of Devil's Doorway when viewed from the East. i’ll probably make it 10ish feet long, and like 5 or so feet tall From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced. Everything to the left of the crack is super hollow, so I would not pull or put any weight on it if possible. Share a Photo . 10 6b 20 VII-19 E2 5b: Stark 3 S 5. 9 project so much, that I of course started dreaming of someday climbing Century. 6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b. Lieback up the corner to the roof. Follow this crack up and end up on a ramp on the left and build your anchor here. This really good route is one of the best in the Bow Valley area for sport multipitch. Boulder > Century Lake Area > Drifter Wall. Pitch 3. I only did it near the top as I didn’t see another place to put my left foot as I moved left for the top out. The rock of Powerlinez can easily be seen when driving north on the New York Thruway, just a couple miles north from the big interchange of routes 87 + 287 + 17 at the southern border of New York and New Jersey. Jan 2, 2025 · Sit start and set up on small, sharp feet with hands in the good crack slot / crystal crimps. Bishops Crack for sure. V1 5 PG13 755 Heavenly > Pratt's Crack / Dihed Nov 10, 2023 · The last 10 years I've been riding/racing/training endurance mountain bikes (50+ mile events), even winning and placing on podiums in CO in pro fields. WoodPecker Crack S 5. 502 Incredible Hand Crack. Mar 27, 2006 · A great climb up a widening crack. + Worst Idea Of The Century Crack V5 6C: Apr 24, 2007 · Worst Idea Of The Century Crack V5 6C: Order Wrong? Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. Bob scarpelli does an excellent job in reel rock of explaining how the art and finesse is lost in the brutality of it. Warning: Some rockfall has occurred on MCR in the area of the Direct North Buttress (DNB) route and in the descent gully. Obvious crack ramp under the main area roof. Oct 16, 2012 · Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. The finger crack is like 12 feet long if I remember right. 175 Yaak Crack. Probably the hardest part of the route is just getting into the off-width, because the rock is slightly loose and the crack is too wide to be comfortable. . Nov 8, 2023 · Possibly the first climb at the cliff. Oct 27, 2003 · Turn the overhang (crux) and continue up the crack and face to a bolted belay. Pitch 4. 8+ 5b 16 VI-15 HVS 4c R Rumor Has It S 5. The Local Climbing Organization for Vedauwoo is the South East Wyoming Climbing Coalition (SEWYCC). Klahanie Crack. Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. P1. Dec 31, 2000 · Of course, there is the world-class desert crack climbing of Indian Creek. Shortly thereafter, the local hardman Jeremy Hong redpointed the hardest sport climb in the First Cave, calling it Long March , his second attempt at establishing a 5. Jun 17, 2006 · Near the top, it is common to traverse right on a small crack system over to the anchors for Finger Zinger. The system incorporates an integrated data management strategy linked to emergency response pro-tocol. Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release. Share on Mountain Project. 7 5a 15 V+ 13 Mar 11, 2021 · In the 1940s, climbing was something you did in the mountains, with the Mountaineers or (intrepidly) on your own. Climb up to the flake and step left to the crack. 7 crack climbing and placing pro before attempting to lead it. Jan 16, 2025 · Arkansas Reality in Sam's Throne, Arkansas is a fun roof crack and not too far from you. Trad Nov 10, 2023 · The last 10 years I've been riding/racing/training endurance mountain bikes (50+ mile events), even winning and placing on podiums in CO in pro fields. some good crack climbs and slab routes, setup from the top with trad anchors for TR. From the top of the face, follow the dihedral and subsequent crack systems up with good gear. The crux comes in the first 30ft but runnouts in the chimney keep things interesting. Work your way to a crack to plug some gear, then head straight up to the trees. Statistics for Holy Crack 5. Triassic Sands Some climbs can be top-roped with long runners but there are around one hundred bolted lines. 11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII-24 E4 6a R Das Musak S 5. I've heard that this is how the first ascent was done and how some folks have repeated it. 11 Crack 5. Moved Permanently. Ascend until you are under the giant roof, then break right onto Saber ledge at the top of the crack system. Oct 26, 2018 · Randall said the following after the first first ascent on UKclimbing. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. You can walk off Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Apr 13, 2009 · Like its namesake in Utah, Indian Creek contains an abundance of quality crack lines. 997 Jan 7, 2025 · Luca DeMeglio wrote: looking to create a crack machine for myself to train on. 8 5b 16 VI-15 HVS 4c. 11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII This is a legendary Squamish finger crack that starts just left of Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. Tom and Pete took a stab at Meltdown and said it might even be harder than 14c Apr 28, 2007 · Mountain Project and Access Fund are partners in an effort to protect and preserve climbing areas and the environment. Incredible Hand Crack Utah > Indian Creek. Top out on Jello tower. 8+ 5b 16 VI-15 HVS 4c: Stark 5 S 5. k. Oct 7, 2011 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jun 15, 2006 · The next most trafficed route is probably Central Pillar of Frenzy (5. 13-. Jam or layback up the polished crack (crux), then follow the crack up and left to a small stance at a 2-bolt anchor with chains. Mountain Project; MTB Project; Hiking Project; Trail Run Dec 6, 2016 · 0 track album Mar 9, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Century Crack is a 120 ft (40m) long offwidth roof crack climb in the White Rim Sandstone, Canyonlands National Park, Utah, graded at 5. 235 North Face/West Crack. 10b 6a+ 19 VII-19 E2 5b: Damnation Crack T 5. 8, 25m. 14b" in Canyonlands National Park, Utah, USA. I have done numerous hard 20+ mile multi day hikes with a 70lb pack in the back country here in CO and some 14ers. Alternatively, it may be possible to begin in a small dihedral to the left and traverse right to gain the crack system at the top of the face. There miles and miles of cliffs along the River Road . Jul 15, 2016 · Center Crack Sit, Main Boulder V9 7C: Center Crack Stand, Main Boulder V7+ 7A+ PG13 Crack-O-Soar V9 7C: Dyno-Soar Right, Main Boulder V2 5+ PG13 Dyno-Soar, Right Side, Main Boulder V6 7A: Dynosoar Sit V9-10 7C+ Irish Goodbye V10-11 8A: Its Never Pretty aka Grovel Time V4 6B PG13 Left Arete, Main Boulder V3-4 6A+ Jun 7, 2023 · The first pitch has been the site of numerous accidents, so make sure you're solid on 5. Tom Randall working the immense Century Crack, beneath the White Rim in Utah's Canyonlands, USA. Begin with a hand size crack that widens to offwidth and then to chimney. It is one of the hardest and longest offwidth crack climbs in the world. 10 6b 20 VII-19 E2 5b. Fred Beckey and his partners were at the forefront of cutting-edge climbing throughout the Cascades, so it is fitting that he discovered and first developed the granite walls and buttresses surrounding the town of Leavenworth. > Century Crack (5. Trad Apr 13, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I agree that it's really hard to compare different stylesCentury Crack (14b) might actually be the toughest; I can't imagine climbing roof Offwidth. The last time we reported about the White Rim in the Canyonlands National Park was when British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker made the first ascent of Century Crack. 45 Cat Crack. 10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b: Directissima T 5. Seems like you may want double ropes. 10b 6a+ 19 VII-19 E2 5b: Jun 23, 2006 · Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. 8 5b 16 VI-15 HVS 4c: Stark 7 S 5. some boulders etc to sling for setup Getting There looking out from hidden rocks, area to the left Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. Mar 6, 2012 · For those of you who A) are bored, B) nursing a grudge against Tom Randall and Peter Whittaker, or C) like crack climbing, then this (ahem) gem is for you! Part of an "offwidth-roof circuit" at Lizard's Mouth (email me if you are interested), this line suffers through a roof-crack created by two boulders, a la Vedauwoo. Nov 18, 2007 · Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. Trad Jul 30, 2001 · Super must do classics include: Edward's Crack 5. Apr 15, 2020 · We take a look at climbing on the worlds hardest crack line. Jan 27, 2003 · The rock itself is immaculate South Platte granite with a bit of Devil's Head features thrown in. Sep 21, 2024 · Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. 10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b: Stark 6 (Crack) T 5. Breashears' Crack V2 5+ Buttery Justice a. I think they'd have a better shot than most, and I'd think of anyone on Mountain Project, Brad Gobright would probably be the most insightful about what hard climbers can and can't do Apr 28, 2007 · Mountain Project and Access Fund are partners in an effort to protect and preserve climbing areas and the environment. Related news: Tom Randall takes huge fall on Crucifix Project at Canyonlands, USA. V1 5 R 334 Perfect Front Side Crack. Ondra seems to think touching holds and calling it a flash is fine. Not sure! iii) Adder Crack (13b?), from the bottom. dont want it to fall apart on me lmao. 11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a: Devil's Delight T 5. May 25, 2021 · Pitch 1. 14). It is a great route for hot summer days as all but the very top of it stays in the Moved Permanently. While Randall has kept his run of form in the ensuing years, this latest project inspired him like none other; after being shown the Berlin project a year ago he committed fully and carefully reenacted his 2009-2011 training regime that had proved so successful on Century Crack. 762 Jan 31, 2006 · Century T 5. Randall did big volume sessions in his cellar at home and even Moved Permanently. 11a, 5. 4 to 5. CENTURY CRACK by Steve "Crusher" Bartlett Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall (both climbers led Century Crack, one right after the other) have pulled off a free lead of what is quite likely the longest roof crack in the world (120 feet long!). But oddly enough the name means more to this crag than any other in the Red, and its the line Crack Attack, a Classic that looks like it should be in Utah. You feel lucky when you get more than 3 or 4 jams in a row. Boulder Cat Rock. 6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b: Zee Crack T 5. Many of them are brutally hard compared to Yosemite crack boulders of the same grade. Nov 7, 2017 · It is like coating the crack in 220+ grit sand-paper, so the wear is bad for the shoes and other equipment, though I prefer that to something with no texture since I find the tissue bruising involved in overly-torquing jams in smooth cracks to be more of a training limiter than having to provide some material for the crack to chew up each session. Britain's Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall are back in Canyonlands, USA, where in 2011 they made the first ascent the spectacular Century Crack. Add a Symbol . 10c) Share on Mountain Project. 167 The Cave Crack. com, “Yesterday, Pete and I completed a 2 year long journey – a mission to make the first ascent of Stevie Haston’s infamous Century Crack project in the Utah Desert. Has a bit of everything and is really good and varied. First free ascended by the "Wide Boyz" – Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker – this notorious route has been the subject of both admiration and controversy. 13. Pitch 2: "The Flume" - Wedge yourself in a compressed left-facing corner crack depressingly devoid of typical 5. Ends on a ledge beside an old tree. Century Crack was the first and our learning experience with this type of climbing. a. This was the first time A documentary video of a climber who loves wide cracks who trained for four years with the goal of climbing the world's most difficult wide crack "Century Crack 5. Oct 16, 2023 · Century Crack, located in the vast expanse of Canyonlands, Utah, is heralded as the world's hardest off-width climb. Trad May 21, 2020 · Just look at the Century Crack FA. Aid Crack is more of a seamy face climb in my opinion with a few locks. Here are some routes (not all included on the previous list) that I find reward crack technique: Curving Crack (5. Hot on their heels, Canadian born Jean-Pierre "Peewee" Ouellet has now freed a nearby 30m horizontal roof crack first discovered and attempted by Rob Pizem. 14b (8c). A 4-6 pitch route that tops out at the summit. Hailed at the time as one of, of not the, most difficult roof cracks in the world, it was repeated in October 2018 by remarkabe US climber Danny Parker. [ 2 ] Jan 21, 2019 · I had enjoyed the struggle of my 5. Lower detached feet Haven’t climbed Lumpy ridge in twenty years, recently got back into trad climbing with my 26 year old son and have been climbing in Joshua tree since January to get my lead head back (I’m obsessed again). 8, ~28m) Low angle rock kicks back to steep layback and dinner plate flakes, ending with a tight V groove to the trees above. 9), a nice crack line to the right of the East Butt (most parties climb five pitches and then rappel). Sport Moved Permanently. 9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a: Sand Merchant S 5. > Book > J-Crack Slab Area. Two bolt anchor installed at tree ledge. 9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British Avg: 2 from 26 votes Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. 8+ 5b 16 VI-15 Feb 13, 2006 · P1: Follow the striking crack straight up the face to a 2-bolt belay. 7, 30m. 7) Green Slime (5. V0 4. Jam out the roof with perfect hands (crux) to a great rest at the end (#3 Camalot). Start up by making a few face moves to gain the perfect (#2 Camalot) handcrack in the two-foot roof. Create Route or Route . Dec 31, 2000 · Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. com/wideboyz?sub_confirmati Share on Mountain Project. Low angle slab. It is well-featured with moderate crack systems running up to six pitches up the crag. 14. 8+ 5b 16 VI-15 HVS 4c: Crack of Doom T 5. In October 2013, Alex Honnold sent an unfinished bolted project at the Backdoor and named it Sorry Jeremy, downgrading it from 5. Popular Areas Near St. Trad Crime of the Century. People tend to want to head right for some reason. Other than its craggy mountain and river scenery, Index is also known for the heavy sounds of the trains that pass through as well as the small town setting with its old mining and quarrying history. Century T 5. P2: 5. Louis Mar 29, 2025 · We’ve now established four Monster Cracks in the Canyonlands desert, and the final one, the fifth, the hardest one, The Crucifix—the one that will break me while I try to complete it—remains a project. It was established in excellent style of bolting on lead and it's ease of access and amount of traffic have really cleaned it up (almost no loose rock on this climb, which is something to be said about the chossies). Easy topout once you're on the juggy section of the crack. 5. You will find a wide range of subtle variations in rock type: the splitter-crack-forming Wingate, the ultra-soft Entrada, the gorgeous Navajo, the oddly solid-yet crumbly Cutler, the interesting mid-layers of Chinle Feb 2, 2025 · The trick at the Lake is finding a crack climb that actually requires solid crack technique. There are many good entry-level grade IV's and V's like Prodigal Sun, Touchstone Wall, and Moonlight Buttress. Fear not - many of the most visible problems are indeed tall (20+ feet in Boulder Basin), but shorter problems can be found if one looks close enough. 86 Right V Crack. 7, 33m) Climb the celebrated classic splitter hand/finger crack of Klahanie Crack, clip the chains, and climb through the trees to a comfortable bolted belay above the trees. The Turtle Mountain Monitoring Project involves implementation of a predictive monitoring system comprising a variety of geotechnical, geophysical, hydrological and other instruments operating in near real-time. Probably also the hardest offwidth crack ever climbed (weighing in at around low-end 5. Sep 27, 2024 · Share on Mountain Project. Danny Parker placing gear in the steep and unrelenting Century Crack. Fun and easy finger crack that takes gear really good. my dad has all the tools and I’m going to cover material cost so I don’t want it to be absurdly expensive. Dec 31, 2000 · Areas are grouped up by either mountain range (Wind River Range), general area (Lander Area), or well known destination (Vedauwoo). Dec 19, 2018 · I know some have done Belly Full of Bad Berries, but let's see that crimp strength on century crack 7/10, but I'll bite anyway. Use the link to SUBSCRIBE for more Wide Boyz fun https://www. V6 7A. 9. Jul 15, 2024 · Did you notice this crack on the Solo Flight descent from Lone Eagle Peak and couldn’t pass up getting on it! It is on one of the minor cliffbands below the East face of the peak. The fabled trango mini-bros are also useful for keeping ropes out of cracks, but kind of excessive to carry for just that purpose. Notizia correlata: Tom Randall: volo lungo sul Crucifix Project a Canyonlands, USA 10 / 10 Pitch 1: Up a seepy crack or the slab beside it to a finger crack, then traverse right across a slab protected by two extremely close bolts and up a finger crack to the anchors. 8 bomber fingerlocks. 9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a: Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5. Aug 6, 2023 · The beginning of the video begins in mid-October 2022, with a scene looking for Century Crack. 10 / 10 Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jan 3, 2007 · Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. The West lives on in the 307! Devil's Tower Classic crack climbs including the Durrance route which is one of the 50 classic climbs in North America. 10+ crack to me, and you can place plenty of gear and gorilla aid through if you needed. Trad Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. Originally, a place mainly for crack aid-climbing, Index now has more free lines than aid. It is very splitter and has good rock quality, though it is pretty short. 9+, MRC Direct 5. Create Route or Route Crime of the Century T 5. 14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b A1 R) ID 125111614 Moved Permanently. 8 5b 16 VI-15 HVS 4c: Order Wrong? Sort Routes ii) Adder Crack (13b?), but climbing up the flakes, placing gear, and then down climbing and climbing the direct. No Fences V10+ 7C+ Center Route V10 7C+ Clear the Runway! Moved Permanently. Walk off to wide gully on the left or rap off anchors via two-rope rappel. Follows the obvious chalked hand crack in a corner through a large overhang. 21st Century Finger Crack Aug 22, 2017 · The Macleod routes are also X, although that hasn't stopped other crazy ass Brits like Steve McClure. Pitch 5. Jan 19, 2006 · Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area. 9) would go on to become the first classic free climb of that canyon which is now eponymously named Pratt’s Crack Canyon in the new guide. An anchor can be made in a horizontal crack high up on the slabs above. 8 that just sucks up pro! Routes vary from 5. Mountain Project and Access Fund are partners in an effort to protect and preserve climbing areas and the environment. Start off the ramp going up and right. The crux is very well protected with a bolt and you can place a good cam just above the bolt. Apr 11, 2025 · Quawpaw Crack T 5. 7, 60'. Jul 9, 2007 · Most newcomers to Black Mountain quickly notice two things: 1) the problems here are often tall and off-the-deck 2) the ratings are HARD for the grade. Purity Ring goes into raptor closures Mar 1 - take a look at the Buffalo Creek crack bouldering circuit (they'll pretty much all have both V-grades and YDS grades so they're easy to identify). Pitch 2. 8-5b 16 VI-14 VS 4c. 48 The May 30, 2002 · Zion is a spectacular park with excellent routes for a wide range of ability levels. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. The document has moved here. youtube. It’s a bit high (it’s about 20’ so it’s a highball?); Moved Permanently. P2: Continue up the crack until it peters out, then follow face holds up and right to a shallow face crack to newish 3-bolt anchors. Jan 11, 2007 · Pratt’s Crack (5. The Batress Crack is a great 5. 8) Dippy Diagonal (5. Could be much easier if you have incredible hip flexibility to start on better feet. 6. Beginning in the late 1960’s, a loose band of trippy-hippy climbers known as The Armadillos would arrive in the Bishop area and become the first wave of climbers on the Eastside. I don't think the roof is as hard as the given grade says, it feels like 5. The classic Providence Crack and crack climbs needing an assortment small to large cams can provide traditionalists with plenty of fun. Jul 20, 2006 · Share on Mountain Project. Tom Randall lavora l'immenso tetto di Century Crack, sotto il White Rim nel Canyonlands, Utah, USA. 9. 9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a. Work your hands up the crack until you can finally move onto comfortable feet out left. As the years went on and I climbed further down the Wideboyz tick list, Century became more of a possible reality rather than some absurd dream. 6, Friday The 13th 5. The largest rock climbing area within an hour's drive from New York City -- in the southwest corner of Harriman State Park. oehdptcpqypxvqzjivewthmucgfmryqnfmfbjjypenbfvorvtp